Ok another geeky test. Note. I have more to post on a weekend away in the glorious English countryside but I want to get this out of the way first.
This is just some messing about with both the Fuji X100 and the Fuji XE1 and looking at strobe lighting with both cameras. My set up is, soft brolly, CTR 301 wireless triggers a light stand, Nikon Sb26, I am not going to go into all the deep lighting stuff like flash sync times, shutters, trigger speeds flash duration, GN numbers because frankly I’m not into maths. I just think about what is going on and to me then it falls into place. Basically open a shutter with a Lens with a hole let in some light onto something that is light sensitive (sensor). So varying those parameters give you different results but all it takes is to look at the image and decide its too light or too dark, do I like the light I have created or not. Then make some adjustments to one some or all of those parameters and repeat. With some experience you can get what you want in 5-10 frames and 20min. This first image is with the Fuji X100. Note the setting ISO400,f/2,1/640,23mm
again note the setting. ISO100,f/5.6,1/125,35mm
So you can see the images are very similar in fact at first glance it’s rather hard to see any difference. In case your wondering yes I got up out of the chair and took the timed shot each time.
Is I wanted to show first off that regardless of the camera and with wildly different camera settings you can create virtually the same light in each image. I should point out that the speed light sb26 is set to full power, manual and about 6ft away no changes to the speed light were made this is all done with camera settings. The sun is setting so a little ambient change is taken place over the 15 mins or so I took these images. So depending on your ambient surroundings you can make the same image with different cameras and different settings, however due to the mechanical differences in the shutter designs the X100 can speak to my trigger on the Sb25 trigger much faster meaning I can reduce the ambient light with greater effect than the X-E1. all this means is that the X100 has a wider range of capability than the X-E1 for strobe work. For these images I also had the built in 3stop electronic ND filter turned on on the X100. I so wish I could have this as a firmware option of the X-E1 (Please Fuji make is so).
Now for the last image and this was just out of interest, again no change to my speed light and soft box. I set the X100 and the X-E1 to the same ( well except for the shutter being out by 1/35th second as I set it to 1/125 and not 1/160. sorry ) but now you can see the same image and more interestingly we are now looking at real everyday difference in the two cameras and sensors. Your going to have to pixel peep a little but the X-E1 is certainly sharper, more contrasting, more accurate colour (to my eyes) than the X100.
So now your are comparing image 2 and image 3and looking at sensor and lens. Cool eh in a non geek but geeky kind of way.
So what is all this about. ….. Not sure. Firstly I should just say a note about all the technical stuff as I trivialised much of it at the beginning. I am an Engineer by trade, mechanical and electrical so I have a good understanding of the engineering design of a camera, but its still stands, just work out or read about what parts do what in terms of let me see light. For example, the shutter, a moving part over the front of the sensitive to light part of the camera (the sensor) if you keep the shutter open a long time you let in more light brighter image, if you open it for a very short time not much light is let onto the sensor so its darker image, if you have the shutter open and close really quickly in fact so quickly you miss the light being produced even with the pop of a flash. (flash sync speed) ok you can now look at really geeky stuff and flash pop duration times if they are long you can catch them so this needs to work with the shutter speed times its why X100 can sync at silly fast speed, its also why I have to drop the Sb 26 to 1/8 power (1/5000sec) to sync at max shutter of 1/4000 on the X100. (Too much geeking I know) Ok now the aperture, think tube with glass and a hole you can make bigger or smaller, bigger more light to sensor, smaller less light to sensor, resulting lighter image and darker image respectively, ISO yeh this just makes the sensor more sensitive or less sensitive to light that it receives using some firmware and electrical wizardry. Ok I will stop for now, I just want to show these cameras are first a foremost both really excellent. They both have good times and bad times to work well in different ambient conditions. In any one set of circumstances one or the other would prevent a good shot from being taken you just need to think what you are trying to create. I love having both and I am very lucky to own both, therefore within reason having both provides a very wide range of photographic opportunity and unique solutions for a very large number of situations yet in a tiny lightweight package, even if I throw in the lighting set up I can make do with a single Domke2 bag with a stand and tripod hanging off the side ….. Mighty big smallness stuff and I thought I would share with you where I am going with it all as I continue with my photography experiences with Fuji X series camera’s.
Back to the more traditional work later in the week as I finished editing my latest trip out in the Camper as we visited Constable Countryside on the Essex border. Quintessentially English summer day and thatched cottages, water Mills, rivers, rowboats and picnics. Oh and all with the Fuji XE1 and the 35mm and NO flash stuff….. Yeah.
Last is all three side by side. I reduced the saturation in the X100 images just a tad in post, the X100 is warmer in real but not by much and that’s a personal taste thing rather than a camera thing .